The Running Chef

Recently, I went to Waterstones to buy a plant-forward cookbook for work. Instead, that trip inspired a bucket list of ultramarathons to run before I die. Oddly, it brought me full circle.

That search for a plant-forward approach not only inspired my ambitions but also reminded me of the way I used to cook, before blogging and running consumed my time. Back then, my goals were simpler: to cook well, to eat well, and to feel better.

Now, that same coincidental approach might help me run that little bit further. Let’s get into it.

Why Now? A Voyage of Rediscovery

Before I started writing recipes for my blog, I never worried about provenance or tradition. I cooked to find a healthier, more sustainable way to diet while still enjoying food. I used whatever was at my disposal, without worry about whether I’d upset traditionalists or appease modern foodies.

But once I started posting recipes, researching dishes, and diving deeper into culinary history, I lost something. Anxiety stole my freedom to cook.

Work reignited the lost spark. We recently introduced a plant-forward approach to our menus. We aimed to use less meat and more plant-based ingredients to create more sustainable dishes while maintaining the same satisfying flavours our customers expect.  It reminded me that eating healthily doesn’t mean smaller portions or restrictive choices. In fact, I could eat twice as much for the same calories with the right choice of ingredients.

My old approach to cooking felt similar because I planned meals using the government’s recommended five-a-day guidelines. Now, with work and running ultramarathons in mind, my own plant-forward approach seems more relevant than ever.

What Does Plant-Forward Mean?

When we first introduced plant-forward meals at work, many people seemed to misinterpret the term. Sales were higher for dishes that weren’t advertised as plant-forward, leading us to believe some people confused the term with plant-based. Slowly, our plant-forward stories showed people that their favourite meat dishes still did include meat. Slowly, people learnt that plant-forward didn’t mean vegan.

On a traditional menu, we build meals around meat, with vegetables serving as a second-tier supporting cast.  With a plant-forward approach, vegetables, grains, legumes, and pulses stand equally alongside the star of the show, creating a flavourful, sustainable, healthier, and often cheaper way of eating. It isn’t about removing the protein centrepiece entirely; it’s about reducing its spotlight.

One of the first things we did at work was a plant-forward pasta bolognese. We cut the beef mince in half and replaced it with lentils. The lentils absorbed the beef fat, creating a rich, flavourful mouthfeel while reducing overall fat. Yet, it made a high-protein, high-carbohydrate meal, perfect for recovering from a high-volume running week without feeling like you’re “cutting back.”

The Problem with the Word “Plant”

Research shows diners respond more positively to “plant-based” than “vegan,” but ardent meat eaters still avoid menu items labelled with either term. And I get it. I’m a carnivore at heart, always content with a medium-rare steak. But for me, dishes that are vegan naturally, free from inorganic substitutes, fake meats, or engineered alternatives still spark my appetite.  If the mood strikes, I’ll devour a falafel wrap with hummus and salad, or a spicy lentil dahl.

Even for me, terminology creates an unbridgeable gap. The word “plant-based” sometimes made me second-guess menu items I’d otherwise enjoy, simply because I didn’t know how far they strayed from what I expected. I could devour a block of real halloumi, but no amount of hunger would allow me to eat a single forkful of the plant-based alternative.

So, when I was instructed to implement a plant-forward approach, I was sceptical. However, once I consciously overcame my own biases, something interesting happened. It didn’t open a new world as promised; it reminded me of an old one. It was an approach to cooking while trying to lose weight and feel better. Long before I chased ultramarathons or posted recipes from around the world, I cooked with more vegetables, and often still do, trying to hit my five-a-day.

What Counts as Five a Day?

The UK government launched its five-a-day campaign to encourage people to make healthier food choices. It’s based on the World Health Organisation’s (WHO) recommendation of 400g of fruit and vegetables. Since the WHO considered 80 g to be one portion of vegetables, their recommendations were simplified into the catchier five-a-day.

Here are the general guidelines

• 80g for most fruits and vegetables, roughly one medium apple, banana, or three heaped teaspoons of vegetables.
• 30g of dried fruits like apricots and raisins
• 80g of beans or pulses, but only once per day.
• 150 ml of fruit juice, but only once per day due to the high sugar levels.
• The high starch content of potatoes disqualifies them from your daily count, but they are super healthy and nutritious, especially for runners.

All fruits and vegetables are rich in essential vitamins, minerals, fibre, and antioxidants. However, they vary in quantity, with some vegetables containing more of one vitamin than others; therefore, it’s necessary to consume a variety of fruits and vegetables. It’s even more important when you consider that reaching this daily goal significantly lowers the likelihood of heart disease and cancer.

My Five-A-Day Strategy

Before I started creating recipes for the previous iteration of this blog, my primary strategy for eating well was to follow the five-a-day guidelines above. Tradition and authenticity didn’t play a part in my thinking. I just wanted to eat better without obsessing over tracking my daily calories, which stole the joy from mealtimes.

Years of excessive beer and poor food choices have led to me always being a little overweight. So, instead of counting every gram of food, I started tracking how many fresh, nutrient-rich ingredients I could fit into each meal.

Sometimes, it was as easy as adding mushrooms, peas, and tomatoes to a home-grilled steak, and willingly foregoing fried potatoes while hitting three portions of my five-a-day. It proved trickier with a Cajun chicken pasta. There’s only so much sweetcorn you can force into a recipe before it turns into an over-sweetened mess. Complications grew when I started my blog. I felt compelled to honour tradition. How would I make a classic carbonara with mushrooms without offending half of Italy?

But as I evolved into the running chef, the idea of modifying recipes to include more veggies and less fat became necessary. Now, adding lentils to a bolognese doesn’t feel like betrayal, but the difference between a PB and a sluggish run. Adulterating the classics doesn’t feel like an insult to identity. It aligns with my sense of self, connecting both new and old goals. To eat better.

A Healthier Way to Eat

Plant-forward hasn’t changed who I am as a chef. It’s reminded me of the way I used to cook at home when I was trying to eat healthier. It reminded me that good food can be both nutritious and satisfying. And now, as a runner, those extra nutrients literally help me go the extra mile.

I’m not giving up meat any time soon, nor am I trying to reinvent myself. I’m not even pushing the cheaper price point or the environmental benefits of eating more plants. The focus is on my health and performance. And in doing that, I’ve rediscovered what first inspired me when I started cooking at home and working in kitchens. It was all about learning and taking those skills into new environments to create food I want to cook and eat. It’s as simple as that.